The Colonia Tovar

Angel Falls Boat Trip, Venezuela | Audley Travel


It was 1843. A group of German immigrants, specifically 145 men, 96 women and 117 children from the German cities of Wyhl, Edingen and Oberbergen, embarked for Venezuela to give life to that colonization plan created by the Italian cartographer Agustin Codazzi on the specific will of the local government, a project that aimed to revitalize the country's economy after the gap created by the war for the independence of Venezuela .

Not everyone knows the history of Colonia Tovar , a pretty village with a typically European style nestled on the first offshoots of the Andes in the state of AraguaA story of good wishes but also of suffering. The Germans, in addition to carrying the tools of the rebirth, such as seeds, seedlings and equipment, also brought with them a fearsome disease, at that time highly fatal, smallpox. As many as 70 people died during the trip and only after 40 days of quarantine inside their boat were they able to settle in that corner of Venezuela wanted by Codazzi, as suggestive as it is isolated, both for geography and for internal rules that prohibited marriage outside outside the colony. So it was that for over 100 years all their traditions were passed down from generation to generation, including language.

I reached the Colonia Tovar by bus, leaving from the ground terminal of the city of La VictoriaEasy to understand why a city like this had remained isolated for a long time. Asphalt roads have now been built for a location that has become the staple in the tourist economy of the area but once it had to be an ordeal: an inexorable climb between hairpin bends and precipices for a jump of over 1300 meters in 35 kilometers. The Colonia Tovar is located at an altitude of over 2000 meters above sea level and the climate here becomes an opportunity to escape the high temperatures of other areas of Venezuela. Suffice it to say that here the average annual daytime temperature is around 16 degrees centigrade while the night temperatures are around 5 degrees Celsius. A perfect climate for growing vegetables and fruit trees. That's why walking here it is very frequent to see colorful stalls adorned with fresh fruit. A tip: try the strawberries or peaches accompanied by a delicious pastry cream.

The atmosphere in the city is different from other destinations I have touched in the country. The architecture refers to the traditional German one with reddish roofs and half-timbered facades, the food sees typically German dishes with frankfurters, sauerkraut and beer, people show mixed somatic features and it is not difficult to find men and women with blond hair and blue eyes. Clearly, isolation is now only a memory and all German descendants speak Spanish and the population has rapidly grown, from 1300 inhabitants in 1963 to over 20,000 today.

If you can, try to come here during the week when there are few tourists and it is pleasant to walk. On holidays and weekends, in fact, the Colonia Tovar is filled, above all with "caraqueños" that from the capital Caracas, just 50 kilometers away, come here to escape the frenetic rhythms of the metropolis. 

What to see in Colonia Tovar:

  • Historic center . The heart of the town is Plaza Bolivar, around which most of the most important buildings are located, such as the Iglesia de San Martín de Tours, the Casa Codazzi and the Old School. 
  • City museum . It offers an insight into the history, customs and traditions of the Germanic people in Venezuela. 
  • Breikanz Mall . a series of shops offering particular crafts in Germany and typical of the region. 
  • Tovar Brewery : the first Venezuelan beer produced here since 1843. Since then the production has been the same since then and the quality standards are those required by the Bavarian purity law of 1516. 

Unfortunately, the economic crisis that is currently going through is also felt here. Local residents are forced to wait in long lines to purchase basic necessities or simply to withdraw current money from an ATM. The city is quieter than other cities in Venezuela, however especially when traveling it is good to take the necessary precautions (do not flaunt wealth, do not bring valuables etc.) and remember to take out travel insurance for a more peaceful stay.

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